The Future of Fine Dining Is Africa, Says Marcus Samuelsson

2026-02-14 - 15:18

Acclaimed Ethiopian-Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson argues that African cuisine is not waiting for global recognition; it is reclaiming a legacy that has always existed. In his view, African food traditions have long embodied refinement, cultural depth, and innovation, even when international culinary standards failed to acknowledge them. “We know our food is incredible,” Samuelsson told CNN’s Larry Madowo. “It’s delicious. It’s connected to our spirituality. It’s connected to our history. So why should the standards have to come from outside?” For the New York-based restaurateur and author, whose career spans award-winning restaurants, global television appearances, and cooking for world leaders, the issue lies in perception rather than substance. He believes African cuisine has been historically misunderstood because it has often been evaluated through Western frameworks instead of its own cultural lens. Central to his mission is dismantling the notion that African cuisine represents a single culinary identity. “Africa is a continent,” he said. “Senegalese food is different from Ethiopian food. Moroccan food is different from South African food. But sometimes when people talk about Africa, they talk about it like it’s one thing.” That oversimplification, Samuelsson contends, has delayed broader recognition of Africa’s culinary sophistication. “Fine dining in Africa is not new to us,” he said. “It’s new to the world.” He emphasizes that many African food traditions already reflect the principles celebrated in modern gastronomy: precision, storytelling, ritual, and terroir, shaped by geography, climate, and community. From centuries-old fermentation techniques to layered spice traditions, he argues that African cuisines possess an intrinsic complexity often overlooked in global conversations. “Our food is connected to whether you’re coastal or landlocked, tribal or urban,” Samuelsson explained. “That’s a rich history. That’s enough to set our own guidelines.” Samuelsson’s advocacy extends beyond rhetoric. In Ethiopia, he recently opened a restaurant in Addis Ababa designed not only as a culinary destination but as an economic and educational bridge. “If you look down from the restaurant, there’s a small school just a couple of blocks away,” he said. “Those students are cooking students who now work in the restaurant. It’s literally a pathway into hospitality.” He argues that hospitality, when properly invested in, can reshape African economies by linking agriculture, tourism, education, and entrepreneurship. “If African nations truly see the value of hospitality, it changes everything,” he said. “It strengthens the economy. It builds pride. It gives people a reason to invest at home.” Born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden after being adopted as a child, Samuelsson describes his connection to food as a means of rediscovering identity. “When you’re adopted, you live your identity almost backwards,” he said. “Food and culture gave me that identity.” His personal journey has also informed his leadership approach within an industry where representation has historically been limited. “I never found cookbooks by people who looked like me,” he said. “So, I knew that if I ever had my own kitchen, I would hire women and people of color.” Reflecting on his early culinary training, Samuelsson described the evolution from apprentice to decision-maker. “As a young chef, you show up and say ‘yes, chef,’” he said. “As an owner, you choose who you hire, who you buy from, and who you bring into the space. That’s where change happens.” Today, he considers the success of chefs mentored under his leadership, many now opening restaurants across Africa, among his most meaningful achievements. “That’s the highest pride for me,” he said. Samuelsson often compares Africa’s culinary trajectory to the rise of African music genres that achieved global dominance after first building strong cultural foundations at home. “They didn’t look to the West to create their culture,” he said. “They just made sure it was dope, that it was incredible. And now they set the standard.” He believes African cuisine is moving along the same path. “We have a billion people,” Samuelsson said. “Why should the standards have to come from outside?” Across his restaurants in Harlem, Washington, DC, Stockholm, and Addis Ababa, that philosophy shapes the dining experience, blending heritage with modern technique while creating culturally immersive spaces. “When you come into our restaurants, you should feel welcome,” he said. “You should recognize yourself, or discover something new.” For Samuelsson, fine dining is ultimately defined not by exclusivity but by meaning and connection. “No one comes to our restaurants because they’re hungry,” he said. “They come for an experience.” Respect for cultural origins remains central to his approach. “I always ask myself; do I understand the cultural background of this dish?” he said. “If I don’t feel I fully understand it, I stay away from it.” As African influence continues to reshape global culture, Samuelsson is convinced cuisine will be the next frontier. “The future is in Africa,” he said. “And when it comes to fine dining, we don’t need approval. We already have everything we need.”